My first memory of fragrance was the smell of camphor and coconut oil. Like every Indian home, ours too had a tradition of hair oiling with my mother’s infusion of amla, curry leaves, camphor and hibiscus flowers, cooked in coconut oil. Over the years, the oil was replaced with styling products and later, when I developed seborrhoeic dermatitis, I avoided it completely. But things changed when I cleaned up my diet and decided to give hair oil another chance. I applied the sesame-based bhringaraj oil twice a week, for short periods, and removed it with anti-dandruff shampoo. Six years later, I’ve completely eliminated the dermatitis and weaned myself off the anti-dandruff shampoo. Though my lifestyle changes helped clarify my scalp, my hair is thicker and longer with regular application of Ayurvedic oil.
The benefits
“The human body is like an upside-down tree. The head is the root, which needs to be nourished with hair oil,” says Dr Gunvant Hari Yeola, Ayurvedic physician and principal of the DY Patil College of Ayurved & Research Centre, Pune. The benefits go far beyond the realm of beauty. Acharya Charaka, the father of Indian medicine, writes in Charaka Samhita, the ancient Ayurvedic treatise: “The one who applies oil daily to the head does not get headaches, baldness, greying, and hair fall. The bones of the skull and forehead become strong, the sense organs and complexion are rejuvenated, and sleep is blissful.” Daily application is impossible in the modern world dominated by Western beauty ideals. “But you can get the full spectrum of benefits, by oiling your hair at least two or three times a week and keeping it on for a minimum of two hours,” says Yeola. If you’re not prone to cold or cough, leave it on overnight.
Photo: Rid Burman Hair and Makeup: Deepa Verma Model: Poojashree/ Anima Creative Management
The exceptions
“Hair oiling is great for people who don’t have dandruff or active acne,” says Dr Meghna Gupta, cosmetic dermatologist and founder, Delhi Skin Centre. “But those with scalp or skin issues, should either avoid or keep it on for no more than half an hour.” Yeola suggests that coconut oil be avoided by those who are prone to fungal infections. Instead, he prescribes dhurdhurapatradi, neem, or karanj oil, to help reduce itchiness, flakiness and hair fall. If you want to avoid oil altogether, Rajni Ohri, founder of Ohria Ayurveda, suggests massaging the scalp with fresh aloe vera gel to soothe the skin and moisturise the strands. “An alternative is to boil a teaspoon each of fenugreek and flax seeds, with a handful each of hibiscus and curry leaves, reduced and blended into a paste.” Massage on the scalp and rinse after half an hour.
The process
The biggest myth about oiling is that it increases hair fall. “But most people apply oil on a dirty scalp, therefore it tends to clog the pores, thereby weakening the roots,” explains Ohri. Because of my tendency towards dermatitis, I always oil my hair on freshly washed hair. Though this may not be practical for most people, one must apply oil on a relatively clean scalp. Massage the hair gently (not vigorously), using circular strokes, with warm oil so it penetrates deeply. If you don’t want to apply oil all over the scalp, try shiro pichu. “Soak a gauze in warm oil, place it on the crown of the head and secure it with a bandage or hair pins,” says Dr Yeola. Keep it on for 30 to 60 minutes before shampooing. “This is good to increase concentration,” he says. “Oils such as brahmi, neem, bhringraj, neelibringadi, coconut and karanj oil work well for shiro pichu.” The biggest problem with oil is the difficulty in washing it off . For this, I turn to my mother’s hack: dilute a drugstore shampoo with water and lather it up. This helps remove all greasiness in a single wash even in my waist-length hair, as the water ‘activates’ the shampoo and helps spread it all over the scalp. Despite its holistic benefits, this ancient ritual was losing significance in the modern world, which gives merit to convenience. But thankfully, the revival of slow beauty is bringing it back to its rightful place in the spotlight.
